Tag Archives: Esther Perbandt

Meeting Esther Perbandt in her shop in Mitte, Berlin

Quick stop in Berlin: no way not to visit 

my favourite German designer, the Berliner Esther Perbandt in her shop in Mitte. I really like her over sized bags and caftan dresses and scarves which folded, looks like a drawing of a folded shirt (picture 1,  “Format” collection / Spring-Summer 2012). Brillant and completely crazy, like the strong personality of Esther. 

If today her designs are qualified by the German press: “avant-garde”, few years ago, the same press named her: the “German Isabel Marant”! The ones who has followed my blog since the beginning, maybe you will remember an interview of Esther in Spring 2008! It was one of my first posts!

In the shop, I see a coming and going

of customers, friends and artists from France and California, assistant and trainees. Some goes to the workshop. The atmosphere is relaxed in spite of the preparation of the coming up show. Laughter, the team works and chats.

Undaunted, Esther explains me she has totally changed her life and mind for 4 years. She created her shop and finally assumes her workhalic temper. And finally she feels free to be herself.

Her today designs are refined,

stripped of any unnecessary ornament. New friendships have led to exciting artistic collaborations, like with the painter Jaybo (last picture). I’ve discovered one of his piece of art, “Rendez-vous avec la lune”, on a wall of the shop (picture above).

A few snapshots, barely time to see some of her next designs and I really have to go, me, Ms super champion for missing planes! Bye bye Berlin and long live Esther Perbandt!



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Rencontre avec Esther Perbandt dans sa boutique de Mitte, Berlin

De passage express à Berlin, impossible de ne pas

voir Esther Perbandt dans sa boutique de Mitte, ma créatrice allemande préférée! J’aime beaucoup ses sacs over dimensionnés, ses foulards ou caftans  type origami qui pliés prennent – littéralement – le dessin d’une chemisette pliée (photo 1, reférence “Format”, collection Printemps-Eté 2012). Super ingénieux et complètement déjanté, à l’image de cette jeune femme a forte personnalité, so berliner.

Grand talent aux créations aujourd’hui qualifiées par la presse allemande : “d’avant-gardistes” et il y a quelques années : “d’Isabelle Marant allemande“! Tous ceux qui suivent depuis le début ce blog, se souviendront parmi mes premiers posts d’une interview d’Esther Printemps 2008!

Dans la boutique, j’assiste à un va et vient de clients,

d’amis plasticien franco-berlinois et grafiteur californien, d’assistante, commerciale et stagiaires. Les uns transitent vers l’atelier, l’ambiance est relaxe en dépis de la préparation de son prochain show. Des rires, ça travaille, ça discute. Imperturbable,

Esther m’explique que depuis 4 ans, elle a totalement changé de vie, de mental, créée sa boutique. Elle assume enfin pleinement son tempérament de workhalic (dingue de boulot). Elle fait ce qu’il lui plait vraiment et se sent enfin libre d’être elle-même.

Ses créations s’épurent, débarrassées de tout ornement inutile.

De nouvelles amitiés ont débouché sur de stimulantes collaborations artistiques (dernière photo). “Rendez-vous avec la lune”, une oeuvre de son ami peintre Jaybo, habille un mur de la boutique (photo ci-dessus). 

Quelques snapshots, à peine le temps d’entrevoir quelques unes de ses prochaines créations, je file. Vive Berlin, vive Esther Perbandt!




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Angel Lili Marlene: Esther Perbandt

A lovely short time in the Paris collections rush: the bags and accessories private sale of a Berliner fashion designer, Esther Perbandt. I come late in the cosy small press office of her Parisian agent.


A tall dark-haired girl with a Louise Brooks fringe leads me to a room full of white, black, silver, bags and jewels and chains. Esther, for me: Esther-Lili Marlene! Then starts an absolutely improvised interview. Blue Angel talks an irresistible English (like mine I suppose!) and uses an impeccable French to precise. Her fingers play with a white wine glass. I’ve always liked a lot  Berlin, German Expressionism, Krafwert, Inspector Derrick and Charming.

– Berlin has changed for 5 years. In West Berlin (surrounded by East Germany) we were really living like in island and I always have the feeling to be “someone” special. Most of Berliners feel it too. When the wall felt, I was fourteen. I went with my hammer and I picked some pieces of the wall with graffiti. It’s so unique, strange. 

Dear Berlin ! Esther-Lili Marlene is a tough gir of Berlin: “the rough way we talk, slangish Berlin”. The Berliner knows well Paris: in 2001 she is graduate of IFM, the French Institut of Fashion. Then she moves to the South of France, to work as an assistant designer at Chacok:

– It was really a big challenge.

Esther loves black, white and very few colors, like this really light yellow. She « jumps in the cold water » and creates her brand in 2003, with a first women’s collection « it’s not  really super pointu, it’s – quand même – avant-garde ».

– My style : a contrast between feamal and male aspect. Fluent drappy, soft sharp or line. Just this is boring. I always have to break it with male aspect : stacking up shirts, straight lines. Really rock heavy chains and leather. And Viscose and silk and coton. It might be sexy, but not “premier degré”.  The « sexy » way of Perbandt : a strong personality, unusual beauty, woman’s laugh.

– Maybe, I’m describing myself.

She has a pensive look at her wine glass, then spruce again :

– Black sheep, was my collection of this summer. I’ve always considered myself as black sheep. My « organic » father has a big sheep farming. 

– Winter Garden, my last collection (Fall-Winter 2008-2009) is the best. It’s a breath, freedom. I used to be called « Bird ». Birds are eveywhere in this collection. I can really identify myself in each pieces. The right balance between commercial and pointu (edgy).

– I live and work in Berlin. And my bags are produced in East Germany, but my customers are not Berliner. German don’t pay attention of what they put on, but I’m selling a lot in Japan.

And also in Paris, at Musée des Arts Décoratifs (jewels), Germany, Danemark, Italy, Switzerland and Canada. In her 2008 wishlist, she fills a commercial agent, a financier and an assistant.

And When Angel Lili Marlene-Esther Perbandt stays in Paris :

– I like to sleep, have a  glass of white wine at cheap brasserie, watch people concerning to their look and beautifull small guys. French guys are small, aren’t they ?

Common big laugh : I miss Berlin, a kind of tough simplicity. The angel’s gone. Thank you Esther ! Maybe to be continued in Berlin…




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Meeting Esther Perbandt in her shop in Mitte, Berlin